23. Paris Guide.
All my best places in one list.
It was my husband’s birthday last weekend and I decided to surprise him with a trip to Paris. Our autumn was slightly rough, with sickness and a lot of bedtime, and with that, life sort of shrunk down to the bare minimum – you know the way it always tends to do when things get tough. We stayed at home, cancelled social plans and streamed a lot of series. As needed and cosy as that might have been, going to Paris felt like opening all the windows, letting light and fresh air in again. It was THE BEST THING. Just him and me, in our favourite city.
I always marvel at the impact a city weekend has on me – injecting inspiration, perspective, romance and energy. There is just something about being surrounded by that intense density of culture and movement. It’s like my body absorbs the feel of it all, filling me with presence and this overwhelming feeling of being alive. Although the trip was only for one night, we took the first flight out Saturday morning and the last one home Sunday evening, it charged me with enough fuel to keep me going until spring decides to return to Sweden (sooner rather than later, I hope).
If you are planning a trip to Paris, here is my go-to list of things to see and places to be. Enjoy!
Stay
Maison Athénée – I was advised to try this little boutique hotel by one of the chicest women I know, Therese Bassler, so for this trip we did – and were delighted. It’s located by the Opera, close to Place Vendôme and the Ritz, so not the best location for dinners, which we tend to enjoy closer to Marais or Saint Germain, but great for shopping and culture. The hotel is very French – red velvet, dimmed lights, charming wallpaper and simple crisp white bedding. Yes, the shower smells a bit damp, yet it was a delight to stay there. Ask for a room on the top floor and opposite the elevator (it’s a bit noisy) and you’ll have a lovely experience.
Hotel Bourg Tibourg – our favourite stay in Paris. This boutique hotel is the friendliest little gem, squeezed in on a quiet street at the outskirts of Marais, close to Rue de Rivoli, making it the perfect location for anything you might want to explore. The rooms are heavily decorated and tiny, yet it somehow adds to its French charm. Disclaimer: don’t bring your biggest suitcase – it simply won’t fit in the room.
See
L’atelier Brancusi – Sculptures have a way of mesmerising me, more so than art on a canvas. Possibly because their three dimensional shapes have a resemblance to the bodies of fashion, which is my core creative language. The reconstruction of Constantin Brancusi’s art studio, which he in his will bequeathed to the French state, is a true gem to experience and is quick to pass through as the space is small.
Fondation Louis Vuitton – Opened in 2014, the space has quickly established itself as a contemporary spot for art. The spectacular building by architect Frank Gehry houses large solo exhibitions of some of the world’s most renowned artists. I couldn’t be more excited for the upcoming Alexander Calder show, opening its doors on April 15.
Bourse de Commerce, the Pinault Collection – One of the most intense art experiences I have ever had was in this building. During the summer of 2025 the multi-sensorial installation “clinamen” by artist Céleste Boursier-Mougenot transformed the rotunda of the building into a spiritual space. Simple ceramic bowls gently floated across a large basin of water, reflecting the sky seen through the museum’s dome, generating melodious almost chanting sounds as light currents pushed them along. My husband and I were there for what felt like forever. The museum has its own interesting collection, but they also invite contemporary artists to create special pieces for the space. Make sure to set aside some time, as this is truly a marvel.
Palais Garnier – Let me tell you a story. When my husband and I got married we travelled to Paris and London for our honeymoon. As we planned the trip we were so excited to realise that Opera Garnier had their big opening of the ballet season on the last day of our stay in Paris. However, tickets were sold out and I was heartbroken to miss this very special occasion. Imagine my surprise when they called from the Opera a few days into our trip, saying they had two “premium cancellations” and that the tickets were ours if we wanted them! My husband had emailed them after seeing my heartbroken reaction, bless his soul, asking them to reach out if there were cancellations. So, on the last evening of our trip we attended the opening gala for the Paris ballet season, sitting in the royal box, built for Napoleon III’s wife. Four contemporary pieces, by four female choreographers, were performed and Chanel had made the costumes. It was one of the most magical nights of my life. If you ever get around to Paris, the opera is where you need to be.
Make sure to pre-book all tickets, not to waste time standing in lines. My best advise is to go to any museum right when they open in the mornings, avoiding too much people.
Shop
The Broken Arm – The coolest store in Paris. Go there to browse a top-level selection of high-end brands like Prada and Lemaire, pick up something from the gift shop, grab a takeaway coffee from their little cafe or just look at the well-dressed people that circle the shop. Their curation says something about where tendencies are heading.
Ofr Bookshop – Just around the corner from Broken Arm is this little hideout. Stacked with all the latest fashion mags, art books and literary vintage selection, this place is a must every time I go to Paris. The titles they carry tell the story about contemporary life, pressing issues and collective longings. It’s also the place where people like Sofia Coppola have their book signings – do I need to say anything more? Go there, pick up a beautiful book for yourself, or buy a gift for a friend.
Dover Street Parfums Market – As a person who gets overwhelmed in a Sephora store, this is right up my alley. A calm and curated space for skincare and beauty. Go there to pick up a new perfume, a bar soap, incense or treat yourself to an overnight face mask.
Hermès – Needs no further introduction. However the flagship store at Rue Saint-Honoré is THE one to go to for the full experience. Pop in to pick up a lip balm or nail polish and enjoy them wrapping it in boxes and silk paper like you were buying a Birkin.
Rubirosa’s – Over at the left bank you’ll find a few treasures when it comes to shopping – Rubirosa’s being one of the latest. Opened in June last year, the goal of owner Lauren Rubinski was “to bring back the small shop, the kind you used to find when you travelled to Italy or France, where you would say It’s on the little street to the left, then to the right and inside they have the best of everything”. And she has succeeded in creating just that – a small quality store, specialising in soft leather flats, cashmere sweaters, perfect shirts and cotton PJ’s – all in 15 different colours. It’s the opposite of quiet luxury, something that is enhanced by the Wes Anderson-esque decor. I bought a pair of cognac croco flats and let me tell you, after wearing them to the office last week I want to go back for at least one more pair.
Maison Krasnova – I guess it hasn’t escaped anyone that pillbox hats are making a comeback? Well, the chicest place to get them is here. The combined studio and store space offers a wide and trendy range of handcrafted hats and headscarfs, seen on all the Parisian cool girls.
Pharmacie Bac Verneuil – I always love a good French pharmacy, stacking up on skincare favourites whenever I pass by. This particular one also happens to carry the biggest assortment of handmade French hair accessories. It’s basically a modern day candy shop. Each piece costs around 25 euro – perfect for treating yourself and picking up a gift or two.
Preclothed – Last by definitely not least, possible the best vintage shop in Europe and my absolute hangup. The owner is the most inspiring of fashion nerds, collecting old treasures from Margiela’s time at Hermes. This is the place where The Row designers shop for inspiration for their collections. It’s heaven. It’s also pricy, so enter at your own risk.
Eat & Drink
Bar Hemingway – Hidden at the back entrance of Hotel Ritz is this calm, heritage, institution of a bar. Might be my preppy background or just the feeling of nostalgia that makes me love this place so much. The drinks are lovely and their Europ-Felix snack stands have been on the top of my wish list ever since being there the first time.
La Petite Chaise – I read about this place before the trip and decided to book it for my husband’s birthday dinner Saturday night. Very French, with a grumpy host and some misunderstandings around our order (yes, we drank negronis with our pâté), we ended up having one of the best evenings ever in Paris. The food was superbly traditional and the setting charming. I highly recommend.
Parcelles – Casually elegant, this is the place to go for dinner. If you are a Stockholmer you will understand when I say Parcelle is the Babette of Paris. The food is excellent, the wine list great and the crowd fun to watch.
Brasserie Lipp – I couldn’t write a list without adding Lipp, I simply adore the place too much. Everything from the waiters’ constant banter, the beautiful wall tiles and them miraculously getting me a slice of tarte tatin even though they were out of it – you just can’t beat it. Go there for Saturday or Sunday lunch and soak up chic Parisian families gathering to eat and listen to the room sing. To be honest, the food is generally so-so, but the vibe is always excellent.
As with the museums, pre-book all restaurants for the best experience. A walk-in is usually impossible.
Pls let me in on your fave spots – you never know when the next Paris trip comes around and I need new places to go.
I wish you a lovely Sunday,
x
//A
Alina, I just read this guide with a morning coffee in my hands and let me say you, it was the perfect feeling. Now I wanna go to Paris as well! Thank you so much for sharing these tips – especially for Rubirosa's which I saw on Instagram here and there but could never find out what it really was. Hope you had a wonderful weekend!
När jag såg att du var i Paris, tänkte jag skriva till dig att jag (och säkert många med mig) önskade mig en guide till Paris på Substack - du läste alltså mina tankar! Merci, c’est parfait !